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            and 
              influencers of Sixties fashion 
               
              
              
                
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                     John Bates 
                      - Pantsuits, catsuits, string dresses and see-through minis. 
                      Designed clothes for 'The Avengers' Diana Rigg (right). 
                      Formed company Jean Varon in 1964 with a wide range of fashions 
                      including some of the shortest minis of the Sixties. 
                    Bridget Riley 
                      - (inset) Op-art artist and designer whose work was widely 
                      used in dress and fabric designs 
                    Pierre Cardin - 
                      Futuristic fashions, space-age catsuits and bodystockings, 
                      Beatle suits and cut-out dresses. Moved into menswear in 
                      1961. Used brightly coloured and patterned garments. High 
                      buttoned and collar-less jackets and zippered smock styles 
                      in lieu of jackets. His customers included The Beatles. 
                      Launched his space-age collection in 1964, some made entirely 
                      of metal and plastic. His female models were dressed in 
                      shiny vinyl, skin-tight catsuits, high-legged leather boots 
                      and even space helmets. Collars, when used, were typically 
                      oversized and cut-outs were very revealing. He designed 
                      the high-necked lace blouses for the 1965 film 'Viva Maria' 
                      which led to a revival in the Edwardian look.  
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      Geoffrey Beene 
      - Born Samuel 
      Albert Bozeman Jr, he his first design job was at Teal Traina, where he 
      stayed until 1963, leaving to launch his own label. Beene's 'signature' 
      designs included elaborate seams, architectural construction, graphic black 
      and white motifs and clinging silhouettes cut on the bias and were an immediate 
      success. US Vogue featured Jean Shrimpton wearing a dress from his first 
      collection and within four years he had an annual turnover of $4 million. 
      "What I'm trying to do are clothes that look effortless without any degree 
      of calculation on the part of the wearer, but plenty of calculation on my 
      part," 
      Defying fashion conventions, he shocked the fashion world in 1966 with his 
      use of grey flannel and wool jersey in evening wear. The following year 
      he designed the wedding dress of Lynda Bird Johnson, eldest daughter of 
      President Lyndon B. Johnson. Also that year, Beene became the first American 
      designer to show in Milan and the first to open a manufacturing outlet in 
      Europe, selling couture clothes and sportswear both there and in the Far 
      East. Noted for men's and women's wear in soft, easy care fabrics, sequinned 
      fabrics, chiffon and taffeta. One of the first designers to mix patterns 
      and textures. Generally preferred dark and neutral colours 
       
      Bonnie Cashin - 
      U.S. 
      designer specialising in Chinese styles, Leather, 
      canvas and suede with ethnic influences, best 
      known for popularising the 'poncho'. 
      
      Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel 
        - Classic Paris high fashion and the tailored 'Chanel suit'. Also a range 
        of sports style fashions and the famous 'Chanel No5' perfume. 
      
         
          | Ossie Clark 
            - Youth fashions influenced by op-art. Hot pants, Maxi Coats, Gypsy 
            dresses, motorcycle jackets, metallic leather and snakeskin. Later 
            in the decade, flowing romantic evening wear and Latin-inspired fashions. 
            Clark had designed for the Woodlands 21 boutique, having his fashions 
            featured in Vogue. He started his own company, Quorum, in 1965 with 
            partner Alice Pollock which was to become one of Chelsea's most successful 
            boutiques. Quorum was bought by Radley in 1968 but Clark continued 
            to design for the new company, later specialising in crepe, satin, 
            jersey and chiffon. | 
           
            
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      Andre Courreges - Miniskirts, pantsuits and see-through 
        space-age designs. He opened his own fashion house in 1961 after 12 years 
        designing for Balenciaga. Like Mary Quant, he has some claim to having 
        pioneered the introduction of the mini skirt in 1962. His most famous 
        designs were the 'Space-Age' collection of Spring 1964 which strongly 
        featured silver and white PVCs with bonded seams. The collection included 
        silver PVC 'moongirl' pants, white catsuits and monochrome striped mini 
        skirts and dresses. He is also famous for his use of the mid-calf length, 
        flat-heeled 'Courreges' boot - an iconographic symbol of Sixties fashion. 
        A more reasonably priced ready-to-wear collection was produced in 1965. 
      Marc Bohan ( 
        Design director - Christian Dior ) - Paris high fashion elegance. Marc 
        took over the reigns at Dior in 1960 after the departure of Yves Saint 
        Laurent. 
      Elio Fiorucci 
        - Miniskirts and 
        general youth fashion. Italian shoe designer who exported many Sixties 
        London fashions to Italy, opening a store in Milan, 1967, specially for 
        London products. 
      Anne Fogarty - 
        One of the first U.S. designers to produce bikinis and launcher of the 
        'Paper Doll' dress, with high waist, low neck, short-sleeved bodice and 
        full skirt. 
      Rudi Gernreich - 
        Sports and swimwear, revealing designs. Rudi designed ready-to-wear clothes 
        for Los Angeles boutique JAX until 1964 when he started his own company, 
        striving to provide a range of clothes which allowed complete freedom 
        of movement. He is credited with introducing the topless swimsuit in 1964, 
        which consisted of a high waist held up by thin straps which passed between 
        the bare breasts. He gave up the company in about 1967 to concentrate 
        on freelance designing and to devote more time to his passion - dance 
        clothes. 
      Hubert de Givenchy - 
        Cocktail and evening dresses. Most famous for the clothes he designed 
        for Audrey Hepburn, particularly her wardrobe in the 1961 film 'Breakfast 
        At Tiffanys'. He is generally known for sack dresses, low-cut cocktail 
        dresses with matching boleros, duster coats and coloured gloves. 
         
        Janet Reger 
        - London born designer who worked in Zurich until 
        the late Sixties when she returned to London and marketed her products 
        through Fenwick stores. 
         
      Betsey Johnson 
        - Pantsuits, miniskirts and t-shirt dresses 
         
        Jacques Heim 
        - One of the designers credited with the introduction of the bikini. Owned 
        a chain of boutiques selling sportswear between 1946 and 1966. 
         
      Emanuelle Khanh - lacy, frilled dresses and blouses, 
        long collared jackets 
      Emilio Pucci - 
        Sportswear and psychedelic skirts, dresses and pantsuit 
      
         
          | Mary 
            Quant - Miniskirts, 
            tights, skinny-rib sweaters and wet-look PVC. She produced designs 
            for Butterick Patterns ( paper patterns ) in 1964 to enable her styles 
            to reach a larger market amongst the less well-off. Mary is largely 
            responsible for establishing London as the Sixties centre of fashion, 
            particularly the King's Road area of Chelsea. | 
           
            
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      Paco Rabanne 
        - Plastic and metal discs, day-glo space-age designs. Between 1964 and 
        1966 Paco designed fashion accessories on a freelance basis for Balenciaga, 
        Givenchy and Dior. He launched his body jewellery in the Spring of 1966 
        on forming his own company. Generally known for clothing in chain-mail 
        style, made from plastic and metal tiles or discs, held together with 
        wire. By 1968/9 his designs included ostrich feather dresses with aluminium 
        bodices and others made in paper and silver leather.  
      
         
          | Zandra Rhodes 
            - Fantasy 
            evening fashions in vivid colours and bizarre patterns. Printed and 
            painted silk and chiffon garments with art-deco motifs, zig-zags etc. 
            Prior to forming her own fashion house in 1968, she had already designed 
            a paper wedding dress which sold for less than two shillings ( ten 
            pence ) during the brief period of popularity enjoyed by disposable 
            clothing. | 
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      Michelle Rosier 
        - Space-age and wet look designs 
         
        Vivienne Westwood - 
        Opened a shop in the Kings Road in the late 60s with Malcolm McLaren ( 
        of Sex Pistols fame ). Better known for 70s 'Punk' and 80s 'New Romantic' 
        fashions. 
         
        Oscar de la Reuta - Designer for 
        major fashion houses, working for Balenciaga, Lanvin-Castillo, Elizabeth 
        Arden and Jane Derby. Started his own business in 1965 specialising in 
        extravagant, opulent designs. Mainly elaborately-trimmed evening wear, 
        particularly gypsy-style designs. 
         
         
      
         
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              Alberto Fabiani - 
              Married rival designer Simonetta in 1953 and opened a Paris house 
              together in the 60s. Couturiers and accessory designers, tailored 
              suits and evening dresses, evening culottes. 
            John Stephen - 
              Suede waistcoats, kaftan jackets, velvet flares, 'groovy' wigs 
            Terence Conran - 
              ( right ) The major force in raising design awareness during the 
              Sixties. He opened his first 'Habitat' store at 77 Fulham Road in 
              May 1964, concentrating on modern furniture and accessories. 
            Douglas Millings 
              - Beatles' suits and men's fashion. 
            Giorgio Armani 
              - Worked as a designer with Nino Cerruti from 1961 to 1974 
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      Barbara Hulanicki 
        - Started 
        her business by mail-order in 1963 with her husband, Stephen Fitz-Simon. 
        Due to a phenomenal response to their newspaper advertising, they opened 
        their first 'Biba' boutique in 1964, selling mini smock-dresses, mix'n'match 
        fashions, rubberised raincoats, floppy hats and lengthened and dyed rugby 
        shirts which were worn as mini-dresses, many of which were decorated with 
        op-art designs. Their favoured colours were muted purples, dull reds, 
        sepias, blues, greys and pinks. They moved to larger premises in 1965 
        and again in 1969 when they opened a department store in Kensington High 
        Street, selling men's, women's and children's wear ( even purple nappies! 
        ). They also sold a variety of foods and household goods but the expansion 
        of the range seemed to be the start of Biba's fall from youth popularity, 
        eventually closing down in 1975.  
      
      Roberto Capucci - Flamboyant use of Mediterranean 
        colours and sculptural forms. He famously produced garments made of sealed 
        plastic filled with coloured water. 
      Cristobal Balenciaga 
        - Highly fashionable in the fifties, the house of Balenciaga carried on 
        through the Sixties with famous name designers producing loosely tailored 
        suits and sculptural evening wear. Balenciaga retired in 1968. 
       
      Laura Ashley - 
        Country style clothing and furnishing fabrics. Laura started with a cotton 
        drill apron in 1961 - almost an anti-fashion house featuring inexpensive 
        tucked and frilled dresses in coarse cotton and lacy shirts with leg o'mutton 
        sleeves. She opened her first shop in Kensington in 1968. 
      Anthony Price - Glamorous evening wear and the 
        designer of the clothes for The Rolling Stones' 'Gimme Shelter' tour of 
        1967, while working as a designer for Stirling Cooper producing fashions 
        for Miss Selfridge. He also later designed for Bryan Ferry and Roxy Music. 
      Valentino Garavani 
        - Decorative evening 
        wear and tailored day wear. While still a student, he won a prestigious 
        prize for fashion design by the International Wool Secretariat (an award 
        also won later by both Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld). This led 
        to his being employed by Jean Desses in 1950. Valentino assisted Desses 
        for five years before moving to work for Guy Laroche, a former chief illustrator 
        at Desses. He launched his first salon on the Via Condotti in Rome in 
        1960. When he showed his first collection that year, he gained huge recognition 
        for his sophisticated, Hollywood-style evening wear. He also drew regard 
        for his full-length skirts ( despite the popularity of mini skirts) his 
        penchant for simple contrasts of black and white and his signature 'Valentino 
        red'. His success resulted in a Paris boutique and the launch of the famous 
        'V' label. In 1967, he won the coveted Neiman Marcus Prize and presented 
        a 'No Colour' collection produced entirely in creams, buffs and whites, 
        in contrast to the highly fashionable psychedelic colouring of the period. 
        By 1969 he was producing designs heavily influenced by op-art and, in 
        1970, launched his first ready-to-wear line, with more boutiques following 
        in Rome and New York. For over 40 years, known simply as 'Valentino', 
        he has been one of fashion's most prominent names, designing some of the 
        world's most elegant evening wear and classic creations.  
      
         
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             Charles Jourdan 
              - Brightly-coloured suede and leather shoes. He also designed for 
              leading fashion houses including Dior and Cardin. 
            Calvin Klein - Klein taught himself how to 
              sew and sketch as a boy, earning a place at New York's High School 
              of Art and Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology. He finally 
              launched his own label in 1968, in partnership with childhood friend 
              Barry Schwartz. Noted for peajackets, turtleneck sweaters and long-line 
              slacks. 
            Karl Lagerfeld - Flamboyant evening wear and 
              furs. He worked for Patou until 1964, later designing on a freelance 
              basis for Chloe and Krizia. He also designed shoes for Charles Jourdan 
              and furs for Fendi from 1967. 
            Jean Muir 
              - Tailored 
              and fluid matte jersey womenswear. Regarded by many as 'The Greatest 
              British Fashion Designer', Jean started at Jaeger from 1956 to 1961 
              when she left to produce her own range of fashions under the 'Jane 
              and Jane' label. This became part of the Susan Small organisation, 
              later to be owned by Courtaulds. She opened her own company in 1966 
              producing comfortable and elegant women's wear including smocks, 
              peasant dresses, shawls, draw-string waist dresses and two-piece 
              suits. 
              For more information, click 
              here to see the great site dedicated to Jean and her work hosted 
              by her nephew, Robin Norton. 
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              The Bobby Fuller 
              Four in mod 'sharkskin' 
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      Roger Vivier 
        - Evening and 
        haute couture shoes, also freelance footwear design for fashion houses. 
         
        Bill Blass 
        - American sportswear and traditional designs with 
        softened lines. Use of ruffles in 60s designs 
         
        Donald 
        Brooks 
        - Luxurious evening pants and voluminous pyjamas, 
        chemises, unadorned dresses, trimmed coats and stoles. 
         
        Stephen Burrows 
        - Leather fashion specialist 
         
        Caroline Charles 
        - Worked with Mary Quant in the early days and started 
        up her own business in 1963. Mini skirts in cotton and flannel, tunics, 
        pants and, later, long flowing fashions. 
         
        Clive ( Clive Evans ) 
        - Opened his own boutique in 1961, specialising 
        in haute couture and ready-to-wear daywear. 
         
        Sybil Connolly - 
        Hand woven woollens, tweeds and mohairs. Evening and daywear. 
         
      
         
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            Yves 
            Saint Laurent - Safari and 
            pea jackets, smocks, pantsuits, see-through designs. He opened his 
            own fashion house with Pierre Bergé in 1962, having had to leave his 
            previous position at Dior in 1960 to fight in the Algerian war. He 
            launched the 'Mondrian' look in 1965 and a collection that was inspired 
            by pop-art in 1966, establishing his chain of 'Rive Gauche' boutiques 
            which provided new fashion ideals for the richer youth of the period. 
            Also in 1966, he introduced 'le smoking', his legendary smoking suit, 
            which prompted the consequent androgynous revolution. He is now credited 
            with a range of other innovations including the reefer jacket (1962), 
            the sheer blouse (1966), and the jumpsuit (1968), as well as ready-to-wear 
            culture as a whole.  | 
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       Dorothee 
        Bis - Opened a boutique in 1962 with 
        Elie & Jacqueline Jacobson-designed 'adult' versions of young girls 
        clothes. Knee socks, peaked caps, cut-out dresses, trouser suits and crocheted 
        sweaters and dresses. 
         
        Luis Estevez 
        - U.S. West Coast designer specialising in glamorous 
        evening wear. 
         
        Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin 
        - Formed Tuffin & Foale in 1962, designing for 
        the young, ready-to-wear market which was bought extensively by London 
        store Woollands. Best known for lace dresses with cut-outs under the arms. 
         
        Frederick Fox 
        - Milliner who opened his own business in the mid-60s, designing hats 
        for Hardy Amies, John Bates and the royal family. 
         
        Andrew Grima 
        - Jewellery designer who opened a business in Jermyn 
        Street in 1966 
         
        Ralph Lauren 
        - Ralph Lauren's empire was founded in 1967, after 
        he opened his first ever tie shop, with no formal design training. Noted 
        for 'Ivy League' styles and expensive neckwear, including 'kipper' ties. 
         
        Simone Mirman 
        - Milliner who designed for Dior, Saint-Laurent 
        and Hartnell, including hats for the royals. 
         
        Rose Vernier 
        - Milliner who designed for Amies, Creed, Morton 
        and Mattli. 
         
        Tommy Hilfiger - 
        Made his first moves into the fashion industry in 1969, while still in 
        high school, with $150 and 20 pairs of bell-bottom jeans which he sold 
        out of his Volkswagen to New York campus kids. 
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